Maiyet PF14 Look
Last week we reported that Esteban Cortazar is relaunching his label with a new concept we’ve dubbed “see-now, wear-now.” A few weeks after his upcoming collection is shown in Paris this September (he’s calling it Spring, but it’s really trans-seasonal), the first deliveries will arrive at Barneys New York and The Webster, as well as on Net-a-Porter. It’s a forward-thinking concept, to be sure. In this video, Cortazar turns back the clock and reflects on his 1990s youth in Miami, when the likes of Gianni Versace, Herb Ritts, Madonna, and Todd Oldham were discovering South Beach. “It made me who I am today,” he says. Watch the clip above, exclusively on Style.com.
— Nicole Phelps
Maiyet Peyton Bag
Esteban Cortazar To Ignore Traditional Fashion Cycle With Debut Of Spring 2015 Collection
Esteban Cortazar made headlines back in 2002 when he became the youngest designer to stage a fashion show.
And now, after a brief stint at Emanuel Ungaro among other projects, the Colombian designer is back in the spotlight again. Cortazar has announced that he's disregarding the traditional fashion cycle and switching up the way in which he presents and sells his eponymous range.
Instead of debuting his spring 2015 collection this fall on the runway (spring collections are normally unveiled in September and October), Cortazar has already allowed stores to preview and place orders from his range for the season, which he is currently in the process of producing. Then during Paris Fashion Week, Cortazar will show his collection on the runway, and as he told Style.com: "the first drops will start right after [the show] at the beginning of October. When all the communications start happening, the client can know she can have it right away."
It might seem strange to encourage consumers to shop a spring collection in the middle of fall, but Cortazar said his offering was designed to be trans-seasonal.
"Why not do something that speaks to the future? It doesn't make sense anymore to show a collection that won't be in stores for six months - the momentum and the desire dissipate. Everyone likes to see everything instantly now, but [up until now] no one's been able to buy instantly," Cortazar told Style.com.
We're interested to see if other designers will follow Cortazar's lead and show and sell their collections in this way. According to Cortazar, buyers "are responding in a really positive way," so maybe a change in the fashion cycle isn't far off.
What do you think of Cortazar's decision to present and sell his spring 2015 collection in this way? Share your thoughts with us in the comment section below. You can also watch a video about Cortazar and his new idea below.
Has The Fashion Calendar Started To Implode?
One of the fashion world’s time-honored exercises in futility is explaining the industry’s calendar. “No, no, the clothes presented this September are for Spring 2015,” you say, with — admit it — a degree of uncertainty, “and the clothes presented next February are for thatfall.” It baffles even established designers, like Esteban Cortazar: “It doesn’t make sense anymore to show a collection that won’t be in stores for six months — the momentum and the desire dissipate,” he told Style.com. “Everyone likes to see everything instantly now, but no one’s been able to buy instantly.”
Embracing a “Show Now, Wear Now” ethos (and new investors, MH Luxe), Cortazar has already revealed his Spring 2015 collection to Barneys and The Webster, and his team is currently producing the stores’ orders. He will still participate in Paris Fashion Week for the press’ sake, and his “trans-seasonal” offerings should be available for purchase by the beginning of October. Buyers are on board, Cortazar notes; however, Style.com suggests that “the trickle-down effect could be huge for traditional fashion magazines, which need production time of their own to turn around new issues.” If only there were a faster way to disseminate information...such as a worldwide system of computer networks that link several billion devices globally. (Style.com)
Esteban Cortazar Is Back With a “Show Now, Wear Now” Concept
Esteban Cortazar caused a sensation when he landed on the New York catwalks back in 2002. His very first collection was snapped up by Bloomingdale’s, and he found himself face-to-face with Oprah, the youngest designer ever, at 18, to stage a fashion show. Fast-forward twelve years (which included a brief stint at Emanuel Ungaro) and Cortazar is angling for the headlines again. This time the news is the manner in which he’s presenting his expanded eponymous range.
For two seasons, he distributed his collection strictly through Net-a-Porter. Now, with new investors, London’s MH Luxe, behind him, he’s got Barneys and The Webster signed on, too. Those stores have already previewed his Spring collection (normally seen in September and October) and placed orders that he’s currently in the midst of producing. Come Paris fashion week, he’ll present the collection to the press, and, as he puts it, “the first drops will start right after [the show] at the beginning of October. When all the communications start happening, the client can know she can have it right away.” (The collection, which ranges from a molded saddle leather top to a soft T-shirt with a good yard of fringe circling the hem and includes more traditional tailoring, is designed to be trans-seasonal.)
Fashion has been griping for years about the lag time between runway shows and store deliveries. “Why not do something that speaks to the future?” Cortazar asks. “It doesn’t make sense anymore to show a collection that won’t be in stores for six months—the momentum and the desire dissipate. Everyone likes to see everything instantly now, but [up until now] no one’s been able to buy instantly.” Will other designers follow Cortazar’s lead? If they do, the trickle-down effect could be huge for traditional fashion magazines, which need production time of their own to turn around new issues. But he reports that buyers “are responding in a really positive way.”
Style.com debuts a video about the project exclusively here.
Maiyet - Shoowa Crochet Sweater and Straight Skirt
Resort All Stars
NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK MAKE US WANT TO BE BETTER WOMEN, YO.
TUESDAY, JUNE 17, 2014
The Boy Wonder Finds An Investor
28 May 2014
DESIGNER Esteban Cortazar, formerly creative director of Emanuel Ungaro, has found the investment he needed to grow his eponymous label. London-based MH Luxe Ltd has acquired a minority stake in the brand - an investment that the company said would support Cortazar's "growth over the coming years".
The young Paris-based Colombian relaunched his label in 2012, but revealed in July 2013 that he needed investment to take it forward. He plans to continue to work "trans-seasonally", WWDreports, presenting two large collections annually that will be broken up into three deliveries - and will continue his relationship with Net-A-Porter while also expanding into 10 to 15 new international department stores.
Cortazar, who is still only 30, became the youngest designer ever to show at New York Fashion Week when he first launched his line in 2002 - missing high school in order to attend, aged just 17. He then closed his label when he joined Ungaro aged 23, but he left in 2009 - and the brand's CEO, Mounir Moufarrige, hired Lindsay Lohan as its artistic advisor.
andréa krueger: charming decorating ideas for a paris apartment
photographs by BRITTANY AMBRIDGE text by CAROLINE BIGGS
interior design by ANDRÉA KRUEGER
In her light-filled Parisian flat, fashion consultant Andréa Krueger mixes
tailored furniture with fine art to create a bright, bohemian aerie.
In 2012, Andréa Krueger and her boyfriend, Maxime Mussard, were presented with a rare opportunity: to purchase their rented apartment in Paris’s 7th Arrondissement. Due to the space’s prime location and its outdoor terrace (a rarity on the Left Bank), it was an offer they couldn’t refuse. So, without hesitation, the couple bought the flat and embarked on a two-year redesign process. “The apartment had been renovated eight years ago, and lacked the charm of an old French home,” Krueger explains. “So my ultimate goal was to create warmth and coziness through its decor.” For inspiration, she knew exactly where to turn. “In terms of design, few things are more appealing to me than Bauhaus,” she says of the early-20th-century German
aesthetics movement that mixed high art with functional crafts. “Bringing the work of artists and craftsmen together really moves me.” Throughout her home, Krueger paired whimsical prints and textiles with practical furnishings.
For Krueger—who runs a consultancy for boutique fashion brands, including Mussard’s own Twins for Peace—the apartment’s petite size presented a big renovation challenge. “In each room, there are so many little nooks and crannies that it was nearly impossible to find furniture that fit the space while also staying true to our vision,” she says. “For two years, I spent most of my free time going to auctions and furniture dealers, and searching online—I’m a bit of a furniture addict.” Krueger’s research paid off. Today, the 600-square-foot space is filled with her discoveries: a plush (but compact) sofa, small-scale chairs and tables, and versatile storage pieces. “My career and my apartment are directly linked,” she says. “When designing our home, it was crucial for me to band together my passions for art and design.”
MAIYET SPRING 2014
Binx Walton is the new face of the ethically conscious New York-based label
Photography Cass Bird
Words Elsa de Berker
Mayiet’s spring ‘14 collection is proof that ethical consciousness and style need not be mutually exclusive. In addition to giving us some of the best spring dresses and accessories, the collection further strengthened the brand’s core mission, which is to celebrate niche artisanal skills from India, Kenya, Mongolia, Peru, and the world over. This time around, they’ve more than succeeded in artfully mixing craftsmanship with luxurious contemporary design.
This spring, Maiyet has chosen Binx Walton as well as photographer Cass Bird to bring the collection to life. Between the crochet hammock and the hand-embroidered silk, everything happening in the imagery perfectly embodies the mood of the upcoming season.
This morning, I want to say…
1 – Friends forever !!!
I met up with Tine and Luisa in New York last week and they showed me their new bag collection(you’ll see more in the next Pardon My French that should be ready by Wednesday)(If everything goes well). Their bags only get more beautiful and I love their friendship, how they finish each other’s sentences, always support one another, and just love, love, love each other.
2 – Style forever !!!
These girls have a real je-ne-sais-quoi, and their style is a true mix. Vintage, name-brands, up-and-coming, they swap clothes, shop their mother’s closet, shop their boyfriends’ closets, and have fun with everything and don’t take it too seriously.
Which is exactly the type of fashion I want to talk about on this blog, even if I like a wide range of styles…
When I see a photo (okay, yeah, two photos) like that it always hits me that this is what I want to talk about.
3 – Red lipstick forever !!!
I love this red on Tine and this pink on Luisa, and even more so because their faces have barely any makeup except for this touch of color.
By the way, red is making a comeback on my lips. I have a pink one from Bobbi Brown that I’m crazy about and a red from Clinique that’s sublime… Between the two though, my heart could never decide.
Here’s what I’m wondering, what about you? Red or pink?
Click on the arrows to see more images…
Translation : Tim Sullivan
TL-180's Antonine Peduzzi and Luisa Orsini Prep for Their Party with Friends (and Cohosts) Claire and Virginie Courtin-Clarins
by Catherine Piercy
Ask Claire Courtin-Clarins how she met Antonine Peduzzi of the Rome-based handbag line TL-180 and she will tell you a story. “Two years ago, I arrived really early to a Louis Vuitton party during Paris Fashion Week. The only other person there yet was Tine,” she says, affectionately referring to her friend by her nickname.
According to both girls, the connection was instant. “We are both really tall and we have the same shoe size. So of course we started talking,” Peduzzi says, laughing. As fate would have it, she found herself at a party with Claire’s sister, Virginie, a few nights later: “She knocked over a vase and broke it. I was the only one who saw!”
The three girls soon became inseparable and, following the introduction of Peduzzi’s friend and TL-180 codesigner, Luisa Orsini, their circle expanded to four. “Since then we’ve been to Rome, Milan, Venice, and Mykonos together,” says Virginie. “We always have the best time.”
So when Tine and Luisa invited the Courtin-Clarins sisters to cohost a party celebrating the launch of their fall handbag collection during New York Fashion Week, “we said yes, of course!” exclaims Virginie, who flew in the night before from Paris to join her sister. (Claire recently moved to New York to work full-time as the manager of brand development for the family beauty empire.)
Now, with just a few hours left before guests begin arriving at Chelsea’s No. 8 nightclub for the party, the foursome has assembled at Claire’s new SoHo apartment to get ready together.
Within minutes, blow-dryers are humming and Virginie’s iPod has been put to good use. “The only time I do my hair is in New York,” she proclaims cheerfully. “Otherwise, I almost never even brush it.” Tonight, she has decided to experiment, which necessitates the help of a professional. After hairstylist Sonia David weaves a low fishtail braid into her hair, she wanders into the bathroom, where Claire and Tine are applying their lipstick side by side in the mirror.
“It’s M.A.C. versus Clarins in here!” laughs Claire of their respective choices: M.A.C.’s bold matte Russian Red (for Tine) and Clarins’s supersheer violet Baume Crystal No. 2 (for her). “My sister doesn’t like to wear a lot of makeup,” says Virginie. “Just lipstick sometimes.”
“It’s true. I would rather have good skin,” says Claire, who is currently obsessed with the brand’s newly reformulated Double Serum (which the sisters are in town promoting this week between shows like Altuzarra, Suno, and Prabal Gurung). “I like to mix a little of it in my palm with the [Clarins] Beauty Flash Balm before putting it on.”
Soon Luisa, who is now wearing the same shade of Russian Red lipstick as Tine, has wandered in holding a pair of matching low-heeled crimson Louis Vuitton pumps up to her high-waisted vintage velvet shorts for inspection. After a quick group assessment, she decides to go with higher, bondage-inspired Louis Vuitton pumps instead. Before jumping into the car that’s waiting outside to whisk them to the party, she stashes the tube in a TL-180 slim passport Voyageur wallet turned clutch—and, in a flash, the four friends are headed out into the starry night.